This is grüner veltliner in all its compelling weirdness: It tastes of bay leaves and sage, peas and lentils, with a flinty, smoky mineral sense. The fruit element emerges with air—cider apple and green pear, with a hint of tart red berries—but the overall impression is earthy, musky and wild, with a lemon-pithy acidity that keeps it tightly wound.