Ten year old wines usually show their, well, age. Wines from cooperatives can be very middling. Many wines from Puglia are ponderous because weather is warm and overripens grapes. Yet, every now and then a wine turns your head and upends all of your prejudices. Rarely will a ten year old wine have the youth and exuberance of this Copertino Rosso Riserva 2011. The blend is Negramaro and a touch of Malvasia Nera that sees two years in oak. The coop began in 1935 with 36 members and now has 300 growers who contribute their harvest. The resulting wine is toothsome, earthy, fruity, aged, yet sprightly, and invites many more glasses.